Adventures in Sweets

Over the last two years, the Pacific Northwest has experienced uncharacteristic heat waves during the summer months (thanks, global warming!). When we arrived in Portland in mid-July with our dog, Finley, we needed an option outside the city to cool down. Enter the Columbia River Gorge. Located approximately 40 minutes from downtown Portland, it can be reached in half the time it takes to drive to the beach, and it’s dog-friendly! The Columbia River Gorge is an 80-mile-long river canyon that forms the natural border between Oregon and Washington. This scenic area is filled with breathtaking vista points, hiking trails, and more than 90 refreshing waterfalls that make it the perfect day trip from Portland.

It is important to note that the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area is located within the ancestral territories of Indigenous peoples who have long been the stewards of the land. As of today, there are four Columbia River Treaty Tribes who continue to take care of the lands and waters – the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs, the Confederated Bands and Tribes of the Yakama Nation, the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation, and the Nez Perce Tribe. The Columbia River Inter-Tribal Fish Commission is a fantastic resource to learn more about the tribes’ conservation and salmon preservation efforts.

Before You Go

It is important to check the official US Forest Service website to confirm whether any day passes or timed entry permits are required. When we visited in the summer of 2022, all private vehicles were required to obtain a Waterfall Corridor Timed Entry Permit, but it appears that program has been discontinued. Current publications indicate a timed reservation ticket will be required from May 26, 2023 through September 4, 2023 to visit Multnomah Falls.

Getting There

Portland was part of our Pacific Northwest road trip, so we drove approximately 17 miles east on I-84 E to the beginning of the Historic Columbia River Highway. There are bus options from Portland, and additional details can be found here.

Notable Sites & Waterfalls

Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic Viewpoint
The Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic Viewpoint boasts an expansive view of the Columbia River and a unique view of the Vista House (details on this below). The founding members of the Portland Women’s Forum are credited with recognizing the beauty of this particular vista and saving it from private development so it could be enjoyed by future visitors. They raised funds to buy the viewpoint and then gifted it to the Oregon Parks & Recreation Department. Standing at this vista point and learning about the women who recognized its importance to generations to come, reminded me of one of my favorite Margaret Mead quotes, “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed, citizens can change the world. Indeed it is the only thing that ever has.”

Crown Point State Scenic Corridor
From the Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic Viewpoint, a unique octagonal building can be seen to the east. This is known as the Vista House. It opened in 1918 as a glamorous rest stop and boasted marble floors, stained glass windows, and a beautiful view of the gorge. It is also a memorial to the settlers who had traveled the final stretch of the Oregon Trail along the Columbia River. In many ways, the Vista House still serves its original purpose, and today it includes a museum, gift shop, and interpretive display of the gorge. Crown Point itself marks the beginning of the “Waterfall Corridor” along the Historic Columbia River Highway.

Bridal Veil Falls, Wahkeena Falls, & Horsetail Falls
These three falls were easily accessible from the Historic Columbia River Highway, and it was easy to hop out of the car to view them. Bridal Veil Falls is the first we came across and is distinguished by its two-tiered drop. A short 0.3 mile down to the base of the falls is well worth the trek to view these falls from below.

We then came across Wahkeena Falls which was my favorite. The trail to it takes you right alongside and directly in front of the falls for an up-close experience. I also loved the way the sunlight filtered onto its angled tiers. Aptly named, “wahkeena” is the Yakama word for “most beautiful.”

I regret not bringing a picnic lunch to Horsetail Falls (our loss is your gain!). It is the perfect spot to enjoy lunch with a waterfall backdrop. For that reason, Horsetail Falls does tend to attract a few more visitors. I enjoyed watching families navigate the shores of the waterfall and young children dip their feet in the cold, snow-melt waters.

All of these waterfalls serve as trailheads for a variety of hikes which are great opportunities to view them from less populated areas.

Multnomah Falls
Multnomah Falls is the grand jewel of the Waterfall Corridor. While stunning and one of the tallest, it is also the most heavily visited. In fact, it is the most visited natural recreation site in the Pacific Northwest, according to the US Forest Service, with more than 2 million visitors a year. If you are up for a steep trail climb to the historic Benson Bridge you will be rewarded with a unique view from approximately midway up the falls. For those overachievers, it is possible to follow the trail all the way to the top where you might get a slight reprieve from the crowds. On your way back down, the Multnomah Falls Lodge is worth a stop and contains restrooms, a Visitor Center, a snack bar, a gift shop, and a restaurant. 

With all the recreational opportunities and breathtaking scenery offered at the Columbia River Gorge, it is our plan to return the next time we visit Portland and I hope you include it as part of your visit, too!